Today is a day for touring. We plan to go to two Mayan sites and also to Lago Coatepeque. Arcelio reminds us to take our bathing suits since we hope to swim there. Padre Alex also joins us for the day, and we head out at about 8:30.
First we visit Joya de Ceren, a site that, like Pompeii, was abandoned and covered suddenly by volcanic ash. This is unique among Mayan sites in that it has allowed archaeologists to study their daily life, culture, and even food. El Salvador has put some money into this park, and it is landscaped, clean, has a museum and knowledgeable guides. We patronize a small souvenir vender there, buying some inexpensive gifts and mementos.
Nearby is a pyramid ruin known as San Andres, another fascinating and beautiful site, covered with expanses of green grass. We walk around on the pelota fields and look into an excavation of the tunnels underneath the complex. There is also a colonial indigo factory on the grounds, one of the biggest producers of indigo in the Americas during its time.
Since it's getting close to lunch time, we drive into Santa Ana to a food court in a big mall. There are the usual American fast food chains plus a number of comida tipica places. The longest lines turn out to be at Papa Gino's.
We drive back to El Congo, where Arcelio and his family live. This is the third of four Anglican villages built by Episcopal Relief and Development. Arcelio's was the first house to be built here. The road looks better, the trees and gardens have matured, and there is a playing field across the street now. Arce shows us the expansion that he has made to his house, which is roomy and comfortable.
The school, however, is closed. It can be difficult for the private schools in some of these areas to compete with the public schools, since they are free. The government has also just announced that it will pay for uniforms, shoes, and books for public school students.
As we walk up the street, Arce tells us that there are 30 houses and a total of 34 families here. Each family seems to have a small garden, plus the church has a manzana planted in coffee. Apparently this property was formerly part of a coffee finca. Arce also notes that, gracias a Dios, so far none of the village youth are involved with the gangs.
Arcelio's wife and two children come with us for the afternoon at Lago Coatepeque. This is a gorgeous volcanic lake with spectacular views. Apparently the top blew off this volcano long, long ago, and the caldera filled with water. It is a cool and refreshing day trip from most parts of the country.
After a long ride down to the shoreline, we park on the grass at a beach area and walk over to a pier men and boys are hand-lining some sort of freshwater fish.
Most of us venture into the water and swim for about an hour. It is also wonderful to sit in the cool shade and just drink in the beauty of this spot. All too soon, it's time to head back. We drop off Arce's family and make our way through heavy traffic back to San Salvador for a savory beef stew at the guest house, saying our goodbyes to Padre Alex with the hope that we'll see him again before we leave.
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